Creating a coat is a precise job that begins long before manufacturing. Behind each model are months of reflection, research, and refinement. Choice of materials, silhouette design, pattern making, fittings, and prototypes: each step contributes to the creation of a piece designed to accompany women for several seasons.
At Trench & Coat, a brand atelier specializing in coats for over fifty years, we develop our collections in-house, with a dedicated team that masters every step of the process. Before a coat, a women's trench, or a spring jacket makes its way into your wardrobe, it generally takes between three and four months of development.
Welcome behind the scenes of their creation.
It all starts with a silhouette
Every collection begins in our design office. This is where Laetitia, our stylist, imagines the future pieces that will make up the season.
The goal is not to follow trends at all costs, but to create models capable of enduring through the years while meeting the expectations of today's women. A coat must be elegant, but also comfortable, functional, and easy to wear daily.
Even before drawing a line or a collar, we consider the garment's use. Is it a wool coat intended for winter days? A women's trench coat for mid-season? A light water-repellent jacket for spring? Each piece meets a specific need.
This initial reflection then guides all subsequent development stages.
Materials selected from Italian partners for over 50 years
A silhouette cannot reveal its full potential without the right material.
For several decades, we have been working with the same Italian suppliers, particularly in the Prato region, renowned for its textile expertise. This relationship of trust, built over fifty years, allows us to access fabrics selected for their quality, drape, and durability.
The material plays an essential role in a coat's personality. Virgin wool will provide structure and warmth, while bouclé will offer more texture. A water-repellent gabardine, on the other hand, allows for the design of a spring trench coat capable of facing light bad weather without compromising the elegance of the silhouette.
Beyond their aesthetic appearance, fabrics are selected for their wearing behavior, their resistance over time, and their ability to maintain their shape season after season.
You can discover these materials in our collection of women's coats and our women's trench coats.
Pattern making: the invisible step that brings the model to life
Once the design is approved and the materials selected, the project enters a more technical phase: pattern making.
This step is carried out in our workshop in Northern France. From the design office's sketches, our pattern-making team transforms the idea into a set of pieces that will be used to construct the garment.
Pattern making determines the overall balance of the model: the position of the shoulders, the fullness of a sleeve, the length of a coat, or the placement of a belt. A few millimeters can sometimes be enough to completely change the perception of a silhouette.
It is also at this stage that what often makes the difference between a simply trendy garment and a piece that you continue to wear for several years is built.
Why a coat may require several prototypes
Contrary to popular belief, a first prototype is never considered a definitive version.
In our French workshop, three seamstresses create the first models to practically test the volumes, proportions, and drape of the fabric.
The number of prototypes needed varies depending on the complexity of the model. Some pieces are quickly validated, while others require several adjustments.
A sleeve may be slightly re-worked. A collar may be redesigned. A length may be adjusted to achieve a better visual balance.
These successive corrections allow us to reach the expected level of quality before any production.
Three to four months to create a coat
When a customer discovers a coat on our site, she rarely imagines the time required for its creation.
At Trench & Coat, the development of a model generally requires between three and four months of work.
This period includes creative research, material selection, pattern making, prototype creation, fittings, and the various correction phases.
This time spent on refinement is essential. It ensures the balance of volumes, the quality of the drape, and the comfort of the garment before it goes into production.
This also explains why a well-designed coat retains its appeal season after season.
Collective expertise dedicated to coats
The creation of a coat relies on the complementary work of several areas of expertise.
At Trench & Coat, development is handled by a team composed of the design office, the pattern making department, and the prototype workshop. Together, they work to transform an idea into a finished piece, true to the brand's standards.
This mastery of the development stages is part of the DNA of our atelier brand and helps to guarantee fair value for money, based on genuine expertise in coats.
Even before being manufactured, a coat has already come a long way. Design, material choices, pattern making, prototypes, and successive adjustments all contribute to the creation of a piece designed to last.
In the second part of this series, we will take you into the heart of manufacturing, behind the scenes of our workshops. Assembly, linings, topstitching, piping, and quality controls: discover the details that make the difference between an ordinary coat and a coat designed to accompany women for many seasons.
To be continued: Behind the scenes of a Trench & Coat coat (2/2): from the workshop to the finishes.
You can also consult our guide on how to recognize a quality coat, which details the technical elements to observe before choosing a durable piece.
